劉克襄/醒來的石獅

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名人堂電子報
2016/10/31 第1047期 | 訂閱/退訂 | 看歷史報份
 

名人觀點

劉克襄/醒來的石獅
聯合報/劉克襄
如何在偏遠困頓之地經營餐飲,最近看到了最喜歡的一樁。

一位經年浪蕩的友人,千禧年初回到高樹大路關,在村裡接下了親人的麵攤。全台奔走多年,見過世面,他因而深知,小本生意之道,在於如何以鄉土美學裝潢,進而料理精彩的在地麵食。

但在此山腳鄉村開店,幾不見遊客。初始六年,每天營業額一千元不到,如是勉強支撐,營營七年後才略見利潤。麵店的名氣好不容易打開,吸引了遠方的旅人陸續前來。但房東見機不可失,決定收回房子,自己執業。

他乾脆在街角的祖厝另起爐灶,繼續以就地取材的精神,重蓋一間磚造老房,並設一寬敞亭子腳,提供木椅和奉茶,讓路人村民皆可進來納涼休憩。店內再以漂流木和廢棄木頭打造各種餐桌廚具,質樸淳厚之氣遂彌漫於室。

而最大特色,當是以爐灶燒柴,煮出一碗麵食。柴燒的木頭,取自附近廣泛栽種的蜜棗樹。在講求快速量化的社會,各地小吃皆以瓦斯備餐。相對下,竟然有人以慢食為準,勢必得有一番料理的膽識和堅持。

早期客家人的飲食偏油重香,友人傳承家藝,卻改良得清淡。微微透明的粄條展現純米內涵,口感柔滑不生硬。再加上灶火炒煮,菜色自是別具風味。餐桌上還有在地烏醋和辣椒醬,可驚奇地扎實調味。盛食的碗盤則出自陶藝朋友的製作,特別燒印在地老麵店字樣,凸顯一世一食的信念。

經營小麵店,若要擴大商機,精心製作食物,強調傳統生活,都是必備基礎。但若夢想著為整座村子帶來改變,譬如讓年輕人留下工作,或者朝向一個友善生態的家園走去,就不容易了。

偏偏友人滿懷此一理想,因而積極參與地方田野調查,整理煙樓、廟寺等文史風物。本以為這是基礎,村子才能走出永續的可能。不意,小店前的亭子腳,最近讓他體悟更深。因為固定提供一壺燒煮的開水,做為奉茶之處。那兒意外地成為麵店最溫暖的風景。

村裡近九十的老農,每天耕作休息都會過來喝水,再去工作,直到往生。一位尼姑常到附近不遠的廟寺修行,每回經過都會踅進,添加開水,視為佛心之堂。還有一對原住民夫婦,路過時,男的一定買瓶米酒,長坐板凳頭小酌。喝得滿足,便高哼一首古調再啟程,而老婆總在旁默默陪坐。他最懷念這些尋常的、不認識的人,在麵攤前,怡然自得的休憩,像一隻林鳥的尋常飛過。

可這些人又似乎帶來諸多隱喻,好像每個人只要平常心,努力過日子,一碗茶水即能撫慰,整個村子都會朝好的方向轉變。總之,麵店可大可小,奉茶絕不能少。

村子過往以石獅聞名。此地每逢稻穀收割季節,就有來自山谷的強風作祟,造成農作莫大損失,村人乃籌建大石獅鎮壓強風。友人特別在旁立牌解說。

每回到老麵店用餐,我都會帶朋友順道去旁邊,參拜那福泰的石獅。兩年前造訪,初遇友人,他還在摸索著如何繼續深耕地方文化。如今再探看,聽他敘述亭子腳的心得,總覺得他的表情和心思,愈來愈有那石獅的形容了。(作者為自然生態作家)

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